A New Wave of Chinese Cuisine Emerges With Goosefeather
49 E Sunnyside Ln, Tarrytown
“Tasty” may be how you describe your favorite Chinese restaurant; “modern and seasonal” is probably not. But the next wave of Chinese cuisine is emerging in the Valley and it has applied the principles that have powered the farm-to-table movement to international cuisine. With restaurants like Lucky Dragon in Rhinebeck serving Cantonese fare made with Hudson Valley ingredients, and growers like Gopal Farm and Et Cetera Farm investing in global vegetables, the Hudson Valley is primed to launch a new phase of farm-to-table cuisine.
Joining the ranks of freshness-forward dining is Goosefeather, a Chinese restaurant from Chef Dale Talde located at Tarrytown House Estate. The restaurant focuses on Cantonese fare, a style of cuisine found in Hong Kong and the surrounding region, which typically consists of grilled and roasted meats, stir fry, and dim sum. Goosefeather’s menu builds on these categories, leaning heavily on noodles, Cantonese barbecue, and dumplings, with Talde integrating offbeat ingredients onto the plate.
A Chicago native, Talde made his name in the New York restaurant world with a number of restaurants and rooftop bars, though readers will most likely recognize him from his recurring appearances on television shows like Top Chef, Chopped, Iron Chef America, and Beat Bobby Flay.
On the menu, look for staples like char siu and the whole roast duck, alongside riffs on regular items like sacha beef short ribs, tuna and jicama spring rolls, and pork and black truffle wonton with smoked chili oil.
Cocktails hold an affinity for trendy bases like mezcal and amaro, as well as clever infusions like green tea vodka and banana scotch. Many, like the moody and boozy Cruel Summer, made with bourbon, Cynar 70, lemon, and Peychaud’s bitters, are perfect for a slow evening anytime of the year.
Located in The King Mansion of Tarrytown House Estate, the restaurant comprises four dining rooms, several lounge areas both indoors and out, and a bar, for a grand total of 180 seats. Talde plans to take advantage of the space with plenty of events from wine tastings to live fire cooking.
“The property really speaks for itself,” he says. “It is stunning, and the possibilities are endless.”
Redesigned in an art deco style, the mansion still boasts gorgeous wood interiors, now enlivened by replicas of modern art and vibrant, floral patterns that nearly spring from the booths. It’s an unusual mix — like a lot of things at Goosefeather — but somehow it all jives.
Sun–Thurs, 5–10 p.m.; Fri–Sat, 5–10:30 p.m.